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Friday, September 21, 2012

Lessons from rabbit breeders

Im reading a few books on rabbitry because we are going to be raising meat rabbits. Here is an excerpt from one of them:
"After having a litter, the question arises of what to do with the offspring. Hopefully you have planned this out before even doing the mating. A responsible bunny breeder would. Not every rabbit produced is show or breeding quality. Its tempting with the rare types to sell all kits as breeding stock. After all; if they are rare, every rabbit is breeding stock, right? NO!!! Only about 10% of the offspring you produce will be as good as, or better than their parents. This should be the goal of any good breeding program, no matter how rare the type of rabbit. "

This should and could also be said about bulldog breeders. I fear rabbit breeders may have more grit than many bulldog breeders.

Thursday, September 13, 2012

Rise to success

Want to have a better dog kennel? Want to have a better program all around? This thought applies to many areas of our lives. A thought is born. A dream, a plan, a goal, an idea. We then set the course to achieve this dream and we work hard to make it grow. And grow it does! But eventually, we reach a plateau. A place where we are still "doing ok" but in this place we are not growing.There is rest here. No pressure. Easy sailing.
If we stay on the plateau too long, we begin to "stagnate". After stagnation, we decay, and then DEATH. Such happens to everything in life, including the human body. If we are not growing, expanding, adding to, we are on the decline to death!
As we decline, we gain momentum, and what took us 10 years to build, takes 1 year to die.

Monday, September 10, 2012

My vision for my program

I have a professional kennel of 10 adult dogs. I always have a few young prospects I am observing. Every breeding done in my kennel is done because i believe it will get me closer to my perfect bulldogge. Every adult dog in my kennel has had a prebreeding vet inspection done, hips xrayed, and temperament tested. Every breeding dog I own competes and earns titles in one or more of the following: Obedience, weight pull, personal protection, and real dog trial.

I do not breed dogs for money. Money is not an issue for my program. It never has been & never will be! I breed dogs to create the perfect bulldogge. A dog that is so amazing, so incredible, that other bulldogges do not compare.
Every day I spend time with my dogs and we enjoy each others' company. I have a close spiritual connection with my dogs.
I go to dog shows & events when I can. I do not pressure myself to go to any. I go when I want to. But when I go, I compete! I show up and show hard. I dont just chase a dream, I make people talk!
My bulldogges provide for me a release, a hobby, and an opportunity to make the world a better place by providing families with the worlds most incredible bulldogge.

Tuesday, September 4, 2012

Success comes only with a vision.

Where there is no vison, there is no success! 
Many people say they have a vision about their perfect dog and what they are trying to create. But when asked, they can hardly explain it. Here is what I do to keep my vision fresh in my mind and hot on the table:
1. See it
I read my vision several times a week and I look at dogs that posess the correct structure and type I am after. over and over and over.
2. Write it
My vision is written out, and on my website. But a few times a month I will put pen to paper and actually write it out. This keeps me pushing toward my goal.
3. Say it
I will read my vision outloud so I am actually hearing it and repeating it.

You may think I am weird, but my vision of my ideal bulldogge consumes me. Therefore i do these things and they keep me pushing toward the goal that matters most. I hope it helps you as it has helped me!

Hot weather breeding by Brian Miller

Hot weather takes its toll on animals, but especially the male breeding dog. Male dog fertility peaks around 5 years of age as does the female, but can breed and settle females long after 5 years if managed for fertility.

Season of the year:
Research tells us the season of the year does have an effect on concentration of sperm per ejaculate. Increase concentration occurs in Spring/Early Summer and lower concentration in Late Summer/Fall (Tahs 1981). Sperm concentration is thought to be influenced by photoperiod (day length) and the environmental temperature. One or both can be controlled. Though the concentration of sperm fluctuates, the normal dog is still fertile and can settle females any time of the year if managed well.

Temperature control:
The testicle is outside the body in the scrotum to keep it cooler than body temp. The breeding male is often housed outside and semen quality he is producing is sensitive to hot weather. When outside temp approaches 102°F – normal body temp – male fertility can suffer. Over 105°F and males can be subfertile or infertile if overheating happens. The issue with the testicle is the stored sperm in the epididymis – if it gets too hot the stored sperm dies and the replacement can take 60 days. Temperature is worth managing!

Water misters over the kennel with shade have long been used and can lower the environmental temp by 10°F. Simple solutions such as mister hoses, or in warm areas of the south more permanent nozzle misters, are sufficient. Timers can be set for the hottest part of day, 5 min every 30 min if temp is under 102°F and twice that high when over 102°F. Or just turn on during the 4-6 hours of afternoon sun at a low level. The shade can be permanent metal roofing or shade netting. Feedlot netting lasts for years and is effective. Just be sure to keep netting out of reach. If you have an air-conditioned kennel, keep males inside and don’t allow outside access during the hot of day. Breed when the evening cools or early morning is even better. When breeding, do not use a male in hot weather more than once a day and never pen breed.

Frequency of use:
Sperm is viable for up to nine days in a female with natural breeding. (Threlfall OSU). AI breeding sperm is viable for 3-5 days, so most of us need to breed smarter not more frequent. The female ovulates at the end of standing heat, which is why they quit standing accepting the male. The best conception rate is when females are bred 4 days before or 3 days after ovulation. That is pretty wide window to hit!

Research done on frequency of use for males found healthy stud dogs could breed once daily without affecting fertility. In hot weather, never pen breed, leaving male with female! Put the females with the male and remove after the tie to limit the temperature influence and keep sperm numbers per ejaculate high. Most breeders moved away from pen breeding to better manage their best genetic stud dogs. Breeding every 3rd day will increase the number of sperm per ejaculate and increase success if some sperm are killed by hot weather. Sub-fertile stud dogs should only be used every third day for the same reason — Limited use will increase the number of live viable sperm per ejaculate available to fertilize eggs.

Infertile or Sterile Male:
The number of live sperm and limited number of abnormal sperm more closely correlates with ability to settle females than the total number of sperm! Both can be influenced by temperature. When we check males we cannot call them sterile on the basis of one sample. Repeatable lack of sperm or dead sperm is needed to declare a stud dog infertile. There are multiple reasons for temporary infertility from trauma to the testicle or infection and this article focus — overheating. Always check at least three times over 60 days before calling the stud dog sterile.

Brucellosis:
Both male and female fertility is affected by Brucella Canis! Any dog affected with testicular issues and infertility should have B. canis in the screening test. Likewise, any dog brought into the kennel for breeding should have Brucella testing to protect your breeding stock investment.

Testing involves serum sent to a lab and the most accurate test is the PCR test done at Kansas State University and Iowa State University. Other tests for B. canis have had issues with false positives and negatives not seen with the PCR test that detects the Brucella DNA. If you have a positive test, you can be assured it is positive and, likewise the negative is negative, no repeat testing is needed to prove the test results. Please always test any new dog and especially any adult dog brought into the kennel for breeding and be sure the PCR test was the one used.

Male Fertility Supplements:
L-Carnitine plays a vital role in the process of sperm development, in promoting proper maturation, and morphology of sperm. It also has a role in ensuring the maintenance of sperm quality and vitality.
Vitamins A, C, E, and Selenium are important vitamins and cleansing antioxidants that play a key role in repairing damage caused by the environment and aging.
Grape seed Extract scours damaging free-radicals from your system and literally prevents “rusting” of tissues and cells of the testicle.
Zinc has been shown to have a positive effect on sperm formation, sperm motility, and testosterone metabolism.
Vitamins - B6, B12 and Folate are vitamins critical to male reproductive.
Lastly Vitamin D has shown to increase sperm motility and I always use if males are primarily housed inside.

These are the vitamins, minerals, and herbs found through research to be helpful in mammals for maximum fertility. They can be useful when given during the breeding season. Research these products yourself or use Breeders' Edge® Oxy-Stud™ — with all these products in it at levels research recommended. Oxy-Stud is used during breeding season and best to start 30 days before for best results. The reason for use is maximum fertility and to keep the stud dog fertile. Most products do not correct infertility but can be helpful. You have an investment in your stud dog; the use of supplements can help keep your investment fertile!

Hot weather breeding is never a sure thing and is one of the toughest management times in the kennel! Keeping your stud dogs cool and not overusing can increase your hot weather breeding success!

http://www.revivalanimal.com/articles/hot-weather-breeding.html?a=REV120713PD

Whats in a Bulldog and how do you test for it? by Brian Miller

What's in a name?

For the bulldog, most everything you need to know about its purpose and function... Once upon a time, the bulldog did quite well when pitted against a much larger, more powerful bull. Now that bull baiting (and other fun sports) have been outlawed how do we successfully test for a dog to maintain the qualities that made it such a famous breed?

Take a look at the qualities a dog would need to win against a bull. Number one, it would need the proper drives - namely lots of prey and lots of fight. The dog would need to be tenacious and unwilling to give up its task at all costs. Number two, it would need the physical body to make that happen- the size, power, striking speed, and endurance to get the job done.

Now, in this new world in which we live, what are some ways we can test for that? Personal Protection takes care of many of these, but what about tenacity? A dog capable of taking down a bull weighing 10-20 times more than it would need to display some serious commitment to the task. One of the best ways to test grit and determination with the job at hand is weight pull. Moving weights much larger than the dog itself was certainly part of the task of the Bulldog centuries gone by.

Those who wish to maintain the original traits which distinguish a bulldog from all other breeds would do well to employ at least some sort of testing in these two venues. Let us always remember what makes a bulldog so different, and work hard to maintain those traits, or lose the true Bulldog forever. 

Scatterbred pedigree

When you have 3,4,7,or 10 different bloodlines in your 3 generation pedigree, you are combining every outcross, every inbreeding, every random breed, and all the philosophies into ONE breeding. Is it any wonder that our breed is random and inconsistent? Inbreeding and linebreeding MUST be the tool of the breeder who wants to establish consistency in health, type, and temperament. Beware of the breeder who constantly outcrosses! 

Heavy in it... by Brian Miller

As we float on this enormous blue and green ball in the infinite, individualized units all churning together as one massive organism swirling in the vapor, some of us realize our place, our calling, where every moment basks in purpose. There is no path greater than the purpose driven life - the life that will eventually come crawling to the instant of acceptance and release leaving the world forever bent to the whim of this temporary creator expelling one last lung filled breath. One unique mind and body never to be replicated, laced with individualized talents yet even in the unfathomable reaches of ceaseless time will never again be repeated. Each of us, reminded of yourself as you read word by word, was set upon our own micro thin slice of the ever growing timeline, made specifically with the capacity to fill a need. Just as a single cell of a greater tendon was made to support function of a muscle acting upon a single bone facilitation tension upon a toe to maintain the balance of man to stand erect amongst droves of horizontal spines, each individual has a role to play, a void to fill. 

It has been said that with knowledge comes freedom, and with freedom - responsibility. Each of us may one day face ourselves towards the end of the long road and be required to answer the most pressing of questions. Did I lead a meaningful life? When you look back upon each choice, each option you took, each step you made to take you down that road you have now found yourself trudging upon, will the reexamination of your commitment of your acutely valuable time spent on bulldogges fill your heart with the sensation of fulfilled aspirations? If not, don't you feel that you owe it to yourself to commit to something that will? Love it or leave it, this is not a game for all but it is most certainly the game for me. - Brian Miller, Evolution Bulldogges

Friday, July 27, 2012

Danger in praising average dogs

The danger of giving praise to average dogs.

We see every day people praising dogs. Liking staus', e.t.c. Obviously if you like a dog, you like a dog. However, having been in the game for a long minute, it is obvious that many people praise a dog because of the owner, not because of the dog itself. Also, IMO many people couldn't tell you anything about a correct bulldogge, yet they praise dogs on their structure left and right. we are all free to do what we want, how we want. But after 2 conversations today with people who do not think like I do, here's my conclusion: The more you praise a dog, the more that dog is built up in the owners mind. They believe that more people are interested in offspring of the dog. They also believe that since alot of people praise the dog, "He must be a nice dog! He gets alot of likes and people talk about him all the time!" And yet, those same people are not lining up to buy pups off of said dog. Bottom line, my opinion is this: Every breeding you do should get you closer to YOUR goals for your program. Unfortunately, many do not have goals. Thats why they breed on whim, or think their one stud is a good match for every bitch.

Sunday, July 8, 2012

I AM A BREEDER

I am a breeder.....

My food receipts for a family of seven and my dog food bills match. My water bill has doubled. My electric has tripled. It is I, a breeder, who when my fridge quit, saved the dog meds and let the food go bad. My feet find the way to the kennel before I have even grabbed a cup of coffee in the morning and the kennel is my last stop before bed. While my friends are on a cruise to the Bahamas and my family meets for Christmas, I am home delivering puppies. I haven't had a real vacation in seven years, but maybe soon. All plans are made around heat dates, whelp dates and vet dates. I shower and 10 minutes later my grandkids say I smell like a dog. My clothes are all stained with fecal matter, urine, afterbirth or bleach. I have to remember to clean my shoes before church.

Most of my friends breed dogs. Who else can you call at 3 a.m. for support? Who else has the experience I sometimes need, the med I sometimes need, or just an uplifting word I sometimes need ? Who else would understand how it feels to have invested hours and hours and hours in a weak puppy to lose it? Or the joy in investing hours in one that lives? I have slept on the floor beside a litter until the crucial two weeks have passed. I have bottle fed a litter of 12, feeding every two hours and it taking 90 minutes to do for weeks at a time. I have learned to be proficient at micro-chipping, vaccinations, sub q fluids, bottle feeding and tube feeding.

My vet knows me by first name. The vet knows my children. The vet now knows my grandchildren. My vet knows it was I who added on the wing to the vet clinic.

I am a breeder.

It is to me that 63 days takes on new meaning still excited by every new life. It is I who delivers all my pups, towels and heat lamps on ready, happiness and sadness sometimes intermingled. Even though it increases my work load, I look forward to the 10-day stage when eyes open, and puppies begin to emerge from the helplessness of newborns. Puppy breath, a first bark, and a heart for exploration. I am not uneducated, unemployable, illiterate or lazy as some animal-rights folks would imply of breeders. I am a conscientious lover of animals and I have found my niche.

I am a breeder.

And although I feel no shame, there is a part of me that feels the need to hide from powers that could come to invade my home and take my dogs ...maybe for finding a mild infraction, a leaf in the water dish? A kennel not yet cleaned for the day? A rash I am home treating? I tell my children and grandchildren to hush, do not tell others we are dog breeders, and I wonder when did breeding puppies go into the same secret place as criminal activity?

I am a breeder and I am not cruel, dumb, uncaring or criminal. I am not raking in money while sitting on my butt. Every penny I make I earn through blood, sweat and tears. My greatest joy is a healthy puppy and a wonderful home. The cards of thanks and the pictures of my puppy with its new family is the fringe benefits of my efforts. I am an animal lover, nurse, midwife, heavy laborer, customer service representative, and marketer.

AND I am a breeder.

--Lori Hallfrisct

Saturday, July 7, 2012

FREEDOM

Freedom?

Freedom, the great divide
the unknown truth, the intangible.
The lure of the opressed
... the fear of the opressor

No one is free.
Nothing is free.
Nothing ever was
& nothing ever will be.

To manifest a notion
of unalienable rights
is to fight the devil.
Dante was right!

They feed us true lies
& we swallow it whole.
Fear is the food
of many I know.

But through the mist
a welcoming light!
It must be freedom.
So calm, so bright.

Give me a chance
Ill tell you what I know.
If it's freedom you want,
you reap what you sow.

Friday, July 6, 2012


Let me make something clear, (this is me being honest). The only reason I am not even meaner than I already am is because I want to try to persuade people to breed a better bulldogge FOR THE BREED. I get annoyed at all the political correctness, especially when its a grown man crying about it. If someone doesnt like me, they can shove it. Im not going anywhere. Im here to stay. And if you breed unhealthy dogs Im gonna be on you. Like it or not, I dont care about your "judge not" philosophy. That being said, there are alot of people breeding garbage dogs who are trying to do better! I give major props to you!!! I get phone calls, emails, texts, and FB messages EVERY DAY from people with dog related questions. My door is always open to share with anyone what I am learning. I am trying to build my ideal bulldogge. My vision scares the weak, and encourages the strong. I like everybody, I want to learn from everybody, and I want to help everybody, but I am not going to tip toe around feelings while my breed is at stake. Pick up an oar and help paddle the boat, or sit there and shut your mouth. Just don't get in my way while I try to rescue a breed filled with looters.
Two roads diverged in a yellow wood,
and sorry I could not travel both.
Yet be one traveler long I stood,
and looked down one as far as I could
to where it bent in the undergrowth;
Then took the other, as just as fair.
And having perhaps the better claim,
because it was grassy and wanted wear.
Though as for that the passing there
had worn them really about the same.
So both that morning equally lay
in leaves no step had trodden black
Oh! I kept the first for another day!
Yet knowing how way leads onto way.
I doubted if I should ever come back.
I shall be telling this with a sigh
somewhere ages and ages hence;
Two roads diverged in a wood and I
took the one less traveled by.
And THAT has made all the difference.
  
                  --Robert Frost (1916)    This is one of my most favorite poems. It says alot about life. I think this also describes what we are trying to do here at Irish Evolution.

Friday, June 8, 2012

A BULLDOGS CHEST

A Bulldogge's chest


Bulldogs are known for their wide, brawny chest's. Most are liked because of the "look". In my opinion, we far too often forget about the actual correlation between the dogs chest and his movement. There is always talk about how big bulldogges dont move as well as smaller bulldogges. In reality, this is soley dependant on the dog's structure, not his size. This is how you can have the big Evo dogs or the Blue Collar dogs who are huge, and yet move and work very well.

The forechest of the bulldogge is very important. If it is shallow or narrow it will affect the shoulders and forequarters, resulting in poor balance and bad layback of the shoulders. When the chest is shallow you will often notice a tall and straight set of shoulders, with straight arms. In contrast, when the chest is too wide or heavy the pendulum will swing in the opposite direction, still against the dogs favor. A steep shoulder with improper layback will affect the dogs movement, power, and endurance.
When your bulldogge is walking straight toward you, the leg should move straight forward in a lengthy stride. If the dog does not have good chest or shoulder structure, he may be taking 2 or 3 small steps when one long step would cover the same ground. In my opinion, a bulldogge should move smoothe and fluidly, not bumpy, rocky, or bounding.

Tuesday, May 29, 2012

You are a dog breeder?

YOU ARE A DOG BREEDER??

You dont know what stifles are, but you're a dog breeder? You dont know anything about genetics, but you're a dog breeder? You've never produced a cull, but you're a dog breeder? Your generations never get better, but you're a dog breeder? You havn't produced any of your breeding stock, but you're a dog breeder? You've been doing this for over 10 years, yet the new boys ru...n the game better, and you're a dog breeder? Your bulldogs have the heart of a chihuahua, but you're a dog breeder? Your bulldogs have the intelligence of a fish, but you're a dog breeder? Your bulldogs have the health of a cancer patient, but you're a dog breeder? You cant handle any correction or advice, but you're a dog breeder? Your dogs dont do anything besides exist, but you're a dog breeder? You have to give dogs away because people wont buy them, but you're a dog breeder? You have "sales" every time you have a litter, but you're a dog breeder? Your biggest accomplishment is a paint job on a dog, but you're a dog breeder? A dog breeder needs to know A-Z, and you dont know ABC. Please...

Wednesday, May 23, 2012

Who breeds good bulldogs?

This is just a bit of a rant, but in my opinion, the more you listen and watch, the more you can see who is breeding quality bulldogges. It doesnt matter how long someone has been at it, it doesnt matter how many ribbons and guild trophies sit on thier shelves (i just saw a dog win 24 awards at 1 show). Do not buy into all the hype and advertisements. Real hard hitting knowledge is all I am after.
Most of the dog breeders in the olde game are like the guy standing on the corner with a jacket full of fake gold watches."Wanna buy a watch?" he says. Very similar to the breeder who says "wanna buy a pup"?

Having a mentor

Many people refuse to have a mentor just like many 18 year olds refuse to hear thier parents advice. They must screw it all up themselves in order to learn.I choose to have a mentor not because I can't stand on my own 2 feet (after all, I have been helping othe people with thier breeding programs)but because I subscribe to the belief that 90% of the worlds most successful people had or have mentors.They will be the 1st to tell you this. To me, having a close friend or confidant who is further down the path than I am is invaluable.
HAVING A MENTOR GIVES YOU AN ADVANTAGE BECAUSE:

1.You have direct access to the thoughts and practices that got them where they are
2.You can become personally familiar with the line of dogs that is probably your foundation
3.Your mentor will pass down thier knowledge and experience
4. You will have a successful person who knows where youre headed because they have been there and done that!
5.You will be taught things that you could only learn from loss of time, wasted money, and heartache.

DO NOT SELECT A MENTOR WHO...

1.Is not aware of the common health problems in the breed.
2.Has not done what you want to do, bred the dogs you want to breed, & does not know what you want to know
3.Does not test thier own breeding stock against health, temperament, and genetic traits
4.Lies about pedigree's

Saturday, May 19, 2012

Money

Money

The love of money in relation to the dog game: I am convinced that almost 90% of the negative things that happen in the dog game happen because of money. I like money. I dont know anyone who doesn't. But if you think about, the way we look at money affects almost everything we do, say, or think. Are registries good for dogs? History has proven that they do not really benifit dogs. Registrie...s are started for several reasons, the biggest reason is to make $$$. If not, they would register for free or donate alot of it to BSL and rescue. You have to sell dogs in order to make enough $$ to keep your program and dogs in top shape. The only way you can really profit in the dog game is to cut corners. I see this every day. 90% of breeders are not charging a certain dollar amount because of the time, work, and planning they put in thier program, they charge it because someone else does. Money. We network and advertise and do all we do, why? To make money. The love and desire of money will ruin a program faster than you can blink. Money is a tool. So is dog food. So are kennels. If look at money as anything other than a tool, it then becomes our desire. Our desire becomes our boss. Money makes a great servant, but a terrible master.

Thursday, May 3, 2012

Bulldog Mutations

Bulldog mutations

It is obvious that through each decade the various bulldog types and breeds have been building upon new mutations. The bully is, in fact, mutation upon mutation.Perhaps the English Bulldog is the best example of the damage mutated genes can cause. Most of the modern bulldog breeds either came down off of EB blood or were influenced by it. The unfortunate thing, is that many novice or "newbie" breeders are constantly playing with these mutated genes and trying to create greatness with unsound dogs. The more mutated and exaggerated a dog is, the more people praise it. There is even a breed that has introduced an "Extreme Class" for all the breeders who don't have a clue what correct canine structure is. An observation I have made when looking at genetics is : MUTATIONS CAUSE GENETIC INFORMATION TO BE LOST, NOT GAINED. In my opinion, when we add new mutations or more exaggerated mutations into a genetically consistent line of dogs, we alter the overall genetics, and immediately lose a vast amount of genetic consistency. So it had better be worthwhile to introduce that mutated gene, because we have to work hard for awhile to re-establish consistency in related dogs. The best way to consistency is inbreeding and linebreeding. Outcrossing (which is the common practice of 90% of breeders out there) is the quickest way to inconsistency, unpredictability, and genetic mess. In my opinion, the only reason to outcross is if a dog has something so valuable to your program that you are willing to alter the genetic code in your line and work to get back the consistency. For those of you who are pet owners and not breeders, if you buy dogs from those who inbreed and linebreed rather than constantly outcross, I think you will be much happier with the results of your investment.

Tuesday, April 24, 2012

Balance in the Bulldog

My thoughts

The overall balance in the bulldogge is of utmost importance. Each moving part should work in harmony with the others. The dog should move fluidly, almost cat-like, rather than bounding, and rabbit-like.
When viewing the Olde Bulldogge from a side view, he should not appear to be leaning forward, putting the majority of his weight on his front legs and feet. His head should be held high, viewing straight forward, not looking down. The neck of the bulldogge should transition fluidly into the topline and withers.

Legs and feet play a big role in the dogs balance, speed, power, and agility. Most Olde's do not have legs that are proportioned to thier size and weight. Legs should be thick and muscular. Thier length should correlate with body weight, body height, and body length. They should flow into thick, tightly knuckled "cat feet". Feet should orient straight. The bulldogges feet are very important. Imagine an olympic runner with flat feet. It doesn't work. Men with flat feet cannot be soldiers. A dog with improperly formed feet cannot perform very many duties, or lead a quality pain free life. Far too many breeders are breeding heavy, thick boned Olde's with straight legs and bad feet. This greatly reduces the dogs balance and longevity. People may say" My dog can run and jump just fine". I would reply "Yes, but for how long, at what age, and at what cost to the dogs overall longevity?" I am more concerned with what the dog is physically capable of at 6 or 7 years old, than at 2 or 3 years old.
85% of my puppies go into pet homes. The other 15% go to breeders, or working homes. No one wants a pet who falls apart at age 6. No breeder wants a dog who does this or produces this, and without proper structure and balance, a bulldogge wont be much of a worker. One who breeds incorrect dogs will not will not continue to be in the game after 5 years (if that). But, not until after they have put at least 100 structural and temperamental train wrecks into the world.

For correct balance, when viewing the bulldogge from the front, do not look at the dog itself persay. Look at the space in between its front legs, and the space in between the ground and the bottom of the chest. That empty space should be square shaped. Equal height to width (in that space) is a well balanced dog. If that space is rectangular, the dogs legs are too short and wide set. This dog will not have proper balance and weight distribution. He should not lean forward on his front end. This is also improper balance and shows signs of HD or weak rear structure.
Remember: Looks can be decieving! Just because a dog is muscular, doesnt mean he is strong. Just because a dog is thick, doesnt mean he is well built. Just because a dog is wide, doesnt mean he is balanced.
 The bulldogge is mutation built upon mutation. I admire large, powerful, muscled up bulldogges. However, a dog without balance of form and ability is not capable of helping the breed. Balance and proportions must be the foundation upon which the bulldogge is built.

Tuesday, March 27, 2012

Recognize the signs, not just the finsihed problem

When referencing the problems in many bulldogges, we can lot dog owners and breeders into 3 groups for the sake of this conversation. The first group are the people that do not recognize the problems in their canines. Their dogs may have HD, entropion, temperament disorders, pinched nares, e.t.c. and they simply do not recognize it. When these problems are pointed out by other people, they often lash out, or ignore the source of the information. We can usually find these people breeding dogs that hurt the breed rather than contribute to it. These types of breeders will often NEVER recognize the problems in their dogs, simply because they do not want to know the issues, because they then feel as if they have to do something about it.

The second group is the group who DOES recognize the problems in their dogs. Now, what they do with the information decides whether they are good for the breed or not. Some problems in bulldogges should never try to be corrected. If a dog is affected with some of these serious issues such as demodex, they simply should not be bred. Ever. There are other issues that can be corrected with objective and planned breedings. The knowledge of the problems within our breeding dogs scares many of us. That knowledge, however, is what empowers us to breed the right dog to the right dog. bred tight is bred right. However if there is a problem within a line, breeding tight may cause this issue to become a dominant trait in that bloodline. Calculating our breedings properly can only be done if we are aware of the problems within our dogs and our breed. If you recognize and acknowledge the problems within your dogs, you have the potential to be a phenomenal breeder.

The third, and last group, is the type of person who not only recognizes the problems themselves, they also recognize the SIGNS of the problems. Imagine if before any problems in our life came, we had a warning and a sign to show us it was on our way! We would be able to dodge or prevent most of our problems, if not all of them. In life, this isnt always possible. It isnt in dog breeding either. However, we can learn the signs of many issues that bother the breed, and thereby prevent ALOT of stress and wasted time. For instance, many breeders will Xray their dogs hips as a general practice. By doing this they will be shown the quality of the dogs hips. But, what about other issues? Many breeders do not check for the other things that affect their dogs or their line (or the breed). Some signs of HIP DYSPLASIA are: keeping back legs up underneath them to put more weight on the front legs, sitting like a frog with back legs splayed out in front of them, hopping like a rabbit after a few minutes of play, weak non muscled bony hip and back leg areas, limping, trouble rising after they've been lying down for a bit. Some of the early signs of ECTROPION: watery or teary eyes, red eyes, eye twitching, visible swelling or inward rolling of the eyelids( further in the case), paw rubbing at the eyes.
Now, these are just 2 examples. What i am saying is, if we can learn the early signs, rather than just the problem itself, we can prevent alot of issues and bad breedings.

Wednesday, March 14, 2012

The importance of your breeding dogs siblings

The importance of your breeding dogs siblings: Just a thought

What importance do you place in knowing the stats, info, and progress of your breeding dogs' littermates? I feel that this is vital information that cannot be taken for granted. For instance, if you are trying to eradicate an issue in your bloodline, and your keeper dog doesnt have this issue, but you find out that in adulthood, every one of the other belly mates suffer from this issue, how concerned would you be about using your breeding dog? If an unknown issue popped up within several of your dogs bellymates, but hadnt been discovered previously in the pedigree, how would that affect the way you use your breeding dog? I believe that as breeders knowing the past pedigree is very important, but any resposible breeder may also want to keep up with the current and recent family tree as well! there is so much we can learn and prevent in our line by observing the siblings of our breeding dogs

Monday, February 27, 2012

Why do I Love Bulldogs?

MY INFATUATION WITH BULLDOGS

This is something I was thinking about today as I was doing OB with a young static x fire daughter. I have owned and worked with other breeds. Apbt's, GSD's, and bandogs namely. They were good dogs! But they just didn't do it for me. Then, years ago, when I aquired a few OEB's, that was it. I was hooked. For me, this is why I think I love them so much:

1. The look
... Who hates the look of the bulldogge? Not me! I cant get enough of it. The head, the muscle, the embodiment of power, muscle, strength, grit, confidence. It just does something inexplainable to me. I think I also like the versatility in looks. Nothing better than a correct bulldogge in my eyes.

2. The people.
The UKC pit people & the GSD people were a little too snotty for me. Im more of a rowdy guy. I like to have a good time. I want to enjoy myself. The bulldogge crowd is where its at when it comes to having a good time at get-togethers!

3.The history
The legitimate parts of the scrambled bulldogge history is very rich and attractive to me. I love reading old history and stories about the various bulldog types. Its something that almost every country shares!

4. The balanced mentality
This one could be up for debate Im sure, because it rely's on personal experience.This could also depend on breeding. However, of the dogs Ive had and handled, Olde English Bulldogges are by far the best. They are so well balanced. they can be great around kids, yet protect the family. they can welcome a stranger and play fetch wit him, yet bite in a second if he became a threat. They know how to analyze people very well. They are extremely functional and can be used for a wide variety of purposes. Also, thier health. A well bred bulldogge is a health machine! They recover quickly, get hurt/ill less than other breeds. They have an indominable spirit which also aids in quick recovery.
So... In my opinion, thats why I LOVE BULLDOGS SOOOOOO MUCH!!!!

Saturday, February 18, 2012

The Color: Blue

THE COLOR BLUE

I was talking with a few australian breeders today, and they told me that a bunch of bulldogge breeders in australia want to get some blue dogs over there. It always bothers me when people commit an act, and then research the action after the deed is done. Far too many people learn about the blue (blue tri, tri,) gene AFTER they breed with it. Heres the scoop: The color Blue in bu...lldogges is a disease. It is a connective tissue disorder. It is a color dilution a.k.a. alopecia. Alopecia means hairlessness. Breeding for the blue color or breeding blue to blue (or blue to anything) causes dogs to have dull, patchy coat which can grow to areas of the dog that have permanent hair loss. The hair folicles are abnormal. you may think: I saw a blue bulldog and his skin was fine, or I had a litter of blue pups and they were fine. Here's the thing: It doesn't always happen right away and the same way to every dog! The more the dilution ( the lighter the "color") the sooner you will see issues. Hair loss, dry scaly skin, bacterial infection (folliculitis), are all common issues within dogs who are diluted. This clears up temporarily with antibiotics, but the affected area is very slow to regrow hair, or remains hairless.
Besides the skin problems, the dog itself will survive, but this color dilution is passed on to any offspring, and continues to grow stronger with each generation, affecting more and more dogs. It opens up doors to other issues and diseases. breeders and buyers must look past the color of the dog. As bulldoggers, we need to be "color blind"

Friday, February 17, 2012

THE NEXT GENERATION

Every pet owner should ask this of their breeder, and Every breeder should ask themselves the following question: Is the last dog I produced better than the first dog I produced? If the answer is yes, now ask "why"? How? What is it that makes them better? Is the last litter I produced better than the litters I produced 2 years ago? What are the factors that aide you in determining a yes or no answer? A different color, wider chest, or famous pedigree does not cut it. As breeders, we all must strive to produce better dogs with each generation. Why? Because if the product of our kennel is not getting better with each generation, then we are staying in the same place. As breeders we cannot remain in the same place for several years. We are either growing or wilting. Increasing or decreasing. For many breeders, their Ideal Bulldogge is already in their yard. They have arrived so to speak. These people will not grow. They have already achieved their goal. Even our favorite dogs should simply be stepping stones to an even better creation. Unfortunately, there are far too many good "pet owners" breeding dogs. Its a thinking mans game. Its a battle that takes strategy. Its not for the faint of heart and weak willed. Remember this: If the generations arn't getting better, they're getting worse.Now lets all look in the mirror and shape things up!

Thursday, February 9, 2012

Breeding Better Bulldogges

BREEDING BULLDOGGES REQUIRES A SERIOUS COMMITMENT
how many times have we heard, " I used to breed something else, and now I breed Olde English Bulldogges!"These same people probably will not be breeding Olde's down the road, either. Most breeders are bandwagon breeders. they are not willing to put in the time, the money, the effort, the sweat, the learning, or the hard work that it requires to breed a prosperous bloodline of OEB's.They are not commited to quality, they are commited to making money. When they find out that there isn't much money to be made, they go on to the next hot breed or color. If you are going to breed OEB's, then you must be commited to excellence. If you can't give a serious commitment to your program, then don't breed.

BREEDING BULLDOGGES REQUIRES A SACRAFICE
You may need to move to a different location, purchase land, build kennels, spend money. Your family will need to sacrafice. Breeding bulldogges will alter and affect every area of your life. The sacrafice that breeding a quality line of bulldogges requires differs from family to family, but nothing great comes without great sacrafice.

BREEDING BULLDOGGES REQUIRES SUPERIOR SKILL

Everyone wants to just buy a few expensive bulldogges, stick em together, let em raise pups, and come up with a kennel name. Skill comes through knowledge and experience. Experience comes through time, but knowledge can be had to those who want it. Read, Read, Read, Read all you can. Learn all you can. Ask questions, talk to others. Find a mentor. You cannot breed quality bulldogges if you simply just breed. It goes way past that. You must develop skill in your program, or you will be a part of the problem, not part of the solution.

Saturday, February 4, 2012

Why do fireman wear red suspenders?

Think about it. is it so they dont focus on the fire so much? Is it because it matches the rest of their apparel? No. They wear red suspenders to keep their pants up. But wait... why RED suspenders? Who cares. By asking yourself this question, you focus on RED instead of the suspenders. Focus on the wrong thing. The lesson to be learned here is that we overanalyze the situation in our lives. We focus on the wrong things when trying to solve problems. We make it complex when it is simple. Don't overthink the situation. take a step back, and look at it from a different perspective. K.I.S.S. (keep it simple, stupid)

Tuesday, January 31, 2012

If you want to perpetuate an entire line of quality dogs, you must select only the dogs who will help you reach that goal. Breeding dogs are tools in our toolbox which we use for our project. An OEB breeders project should be breeding top quality OEB's that raise the bar of the breed and better the next generation. Therefore, as a breeder, you must know what good/bad traits your dogs posess, how they will affect your line, and breed according to that knowledge.The dogs you select, will be what you produce. The dogs you breed, will be what you produce. Not very often do you breed subpar dogs and get exceptional offspring. Not very often do you breed exceptional dogs and get subpar offspring. As Brian Miller explained in his post about x-raying hips on dogs, if a dog has some area where it is lacking, that doesnt mean you need to scrap the dog from your program. Learn what you can and cannot work with. Learn how to breed through the issues. Im not saying breed your dog with demodex, or entropion. What I am saying is not every flaw should be a fatal one. A breeder who knows their pedigree, dogs, and bloodlines well will be able to easily determine which flaws are ok to work through, and which flaws must remove dogs from the breeding plan.
Decide what kind of dog you want to produce, and use only dogs who can help you produce what you're after. Don't settle for just any animal because they're available. Choose wisely, make informed moves.
There should be specific testing and specific requirements for every dog within your program. If the dog does not meet these requirements, it should not be allowed in your program. Do not select a breeding dog based on easy things. (Dont breed because of its bloodline, color, size, etc). The dog makes the dog, not the bloodline, color, or head size.
Also, another question breeders must ask themselves when evaluating breeding stock is: does this dog produce better than itself? If a dog is not capable of breeding better than itself, how can it help you to raise the bar? How can it help provide you with a better generation?
You get what you work for. If you want great dogs, you must select and breed for great dogs.
The best way to do this in my opinion is to have a clear, defined goal within your breeding program. Have a blueprint. Know where you want to be in the next 2 years. A running back with no endzone to run to plays a pointless game. Get the ball in your hands, keep your eyes on the goal line, and dont let anybody or anything stop you from reaching your goal.

Sunday, January 29, 2012

TIME AND CHANCE

TIME AND CHANCE

This is something that I had developed for different purposes, but I realized I could apply it to my program as well, and hopefully it can help someone else, like it helped me.

I believe that time and chance happen to us all. The rain falls on the just and the unjust. While I believe we all "make our own luck", I also believe that luck visits each of us from time to time. Good a...nd bad visits each of us in our breeding programs. It is how we capitalize on the good, and how we work through the bad that decides how successful we can be. When breedings end up producing better than you expected, how do you capitalize on this success? When things in your program dont go as you hoped, do you give up or work harder? You see, breeders are not necessarily more successful because they're smarter, breeders are more successful because they work harder, and because of how they respond to adversity. "The race is not to the swift, nor the battle to the strong, niether yet bread to the wise, nor yet riches to men of understanding, nor yet favor to men of skill, but time and chance happeneth to them all" -
Ecclesiastes
I dont think this passage is saying that men of skill dont gain favor, or the battle doesnt go to the strong, I think what its saying is that when time and chance happened to them all, he who is strong capitalized on his opportunities.
The difference between breeders is their breeding principles & their work ethic. Do we capitalize on time and chance? Make every moment count!

Saturday, January 28, 2012

The Mouth of the Olde English Bulldogge

THE MOUTH OF AN OLDE ENGLISH BULLDOGGE

side note: I have heard argument for a reverse scissor bite, but don't know enough proof to believe its superior to an undershot. Read on.

Different than most breeds, the OEB should not have a scissor bite. A scissor bite is when the upper incisors overlap and touch the lower incisors ( this puts wear and tear on the incisors as years go by). A bulldog should not be overshot, where the top jaw is longer than the bottom. They should be 1/4 to 1/2 inch undershot. This helps create the typical look of the bulldog, and by slightly extending the lower jaw, you gain better leverage and a stronger bite. Think: Crocodiles. They too have a slight undershot jaw and have much greater jaw power than the caiman and the alligator, who have a sort of scissor bite. OEB's are supposed to have a full set of teeth, I have heard 42 in number. However, many of them are missing a pre-molar on one of thier top maxille or bottom mandibles.The pre-molars are located right behind the canines. There should be 4 pre-molars behind each canine. After the pre-molars, there are 2 big molars on the top jaws and 3 big molars on the bottom jaws. These pre-molars get bigger as they head toward the back of the mouth, the 4th one being the biggest. If the bulldogge is missing one or more of these molars ( on the top OR bottom), it can weaken the jaw and bite! THIS IS A GENETIC TRAIT. This is a very easy trait to fix: Don't breed to other dogs who are missing teeth, and there will be little risk of it passing to future generations. You can have dogs with stronger jaws and bites in 1 generation by adhering to this rule.

In general terms, the bulldogge teeth are his only tool for offense and defense. This is also how he eats. An OEB's teeth are very important. For bulldogs, it is best if the teeth do not meet crown to crown or for the top to overlap (scissor bite). The bottom jaw should be slightly longer than the top. Most other working breeds are not this way, but because the manner in which the bulldog bites, attacks, holds, crushes, and chews, an undershot is desirable. Besides that, it helps create that distinct look (Im not talking extreme EB look here). When you study your dog's mouth, move the pendulous lips and cheek tissue completely out of the way. The placement of a bulldogges teeth are affected by these things in order : genetics, jaw structure, other teeth, and the habits of the dog (what they bite, how they bite it).
As breeders, we need to look at how the teeth relate to each other & how they respond to the jaw. We need to know about the whole mouth, not just the teeth. Don't stop at counting number of teeth and checking the bite. Those 2 things alone do not account for a good mouth. It's about every part of it. The number of teeth, the bite, the depth, length, and width of the jaw, jaw curvature, excessive flews, tongue size (and size when dog is heated), deepness and clearness of throat,gum strength and depth, and pallate. All of this should be processed when considering dogs for breeding.

WRY JAW
A wry jaw occurs when: Either the 2 upper or lower jaw bones are a different length than each other, or in drastic cases, all 4 are different lengths. This is genetic as well, & a dog with wry jaw should never be bred. Since one of the top or bottom jaw bones grows too fast in comparison to the others, it pushes out the relative facial area, giving it a swollen and twisted appearance ( a.k.a. "wry"). Dogs who have wry jaw will have extreme difficulty with a proper bite and hold, and many even have difficulty chewing food with normalcy. The bulldogges mouth is just one of many important factors in the OEB, but it is very important.

Thursday, January 26, 2012

STUDY ON THE HEAD OF OLDE ENGLISH BULLDOGGES

HEAD STUDY ON THE OLDE ENGLISH BULLDOGGE

I see much emphasis & bragging on the head of the OEB, but truth be told, the OEB is not a "head breed". It is a total package dog that has far too many factors for it to be a one part dog. I do believe that the OEB head is the biggest way to identify the breed, but is by far not the biggest factor in the breed. Head structure and build is important.

SKULL
A large, thick skull is desired but only if it is proportioned to the rest of the head. In most breeds, the heads of the females are smaller than the males, this is not always the case in the OEB. The OEB head should be broad and squared. Far too many Olde's have round, bowling ball heads. The skull should be broad, flat, and thick. No one should ever brag about an exaggerated head. In the OEB, its all about proportions. For a functional bulldog of any breed, the head should be 2/3rds the width of the front of the dog. Meaning the head fits into the middle 66% of the chest, with a remaining 17% on the left side of the head, and 17% on the right side.The skull and the muzzle should be joined together by a distinct stop.

MUZZLE
The stop is slightly more vertical than that of an apbt. The nose should abruptly end the muzzle & not turn upwards into the topline of the muzzle. The nose should be thick, broad, and pronounced. It should have wide open nares. Variations of brown colored noses are also ok but pink and dudley noses represent a lack of pigment and should be avoided. The nose should be wedge shaped, not circular or triangular. The muzzle of the OEB should be wide, deep, and box like. A wider, deeper muzzle allows for a longer, stronger grip. It also contributes to a more powerful masseter & mandible which equals more jaw strength and biting power. Muzzle should be 2/3rds total head length(not as short as an EB or as long as typical bullmastiff) The bottom jaw should slightly curve upward. the lips should be dark pigmented, relative to the nose color, and should be full and pendulous. The bottom jaw should be deep and visible. The cheek muscles should be visible but not bulky. If the cheek muscles are too heavy or thick they will detract from the jaw power and will encourage overheating in the dog. They should be chiseled, proportioned muscles which overlay the cheek bones. The cheek muscles should be pronounced but not wrinkly. The deeper the jaw goes into the head, the more power and leverage the jaw has.

EYES & EARS
The eyes of the olde should be round or almond shaped, and rest on top of the muzzle line. Dark colors are preferred. Eyes should be open, communicative and full of expression. Eyes should be well protected by a furrowed brow. They should never bulge like the EB, BT, or pug. Ears should be set even and proportioned to the head. Forward flap or rose eared preferred.
That does it for now. Lets build some bulldogs!

Monday, January 23, 2012

Its time to step it up

As a passionate dog breeder, Ive seen firsthand the devastation that careless breeding brings in a dogs life, and in the breed as a whole. Our shelters are full of beautiful dogs whos lives will be cut short because of foolish breeding and careless owning. Many breeders today still follow the same patterns of carelessness and irresponsibility that the previous generation did. While so many breeders have worked hard & sacraficed to make the breed better, they often feel as if they carry this weight alone. History has proven, that a breed bred without a purpose is a breed that will be destroyed. many of us have dealt with tragedies in the game and we have learned what works and what doesnt. We have learned how powerful each breeding is, and how crucial a role we play in helping our breed.

I believe that every breeder needs to take it upon themselves to save the breed. The call has been made, the need has been made known. I am aware that so many read this board who do not comment. So I say this: Who will step up? Who will help to raise the bar? Who will do whatever it takes to make our breed better & make them the legendary bulldogges they could be? But more than just breeding dogs, we must train them and study them. We must help others along the way. We must provide a visual representation of what the Olde ought to be. We should model how to walk with integrity and treat others honestly. We should call out others to become responsible breeders, who breed these dogs for what matters in the breed.
Some people will hear this and mock it. Or ignore it. But I believe that as a breeder, we are all accountable for the dogs we produce. Its not "To each thier own". We cant wake up one day & find out that our personal preferences had no impact, no value to the breed.
Some people will hear this and agree with it, yet have no guts to put it to action. Instead they will manipulate the breed for themselves & waste the opportunity to produce a better generation for the future.

But there are some breeders, who regardless of thier past mistakes, regardless of what others do, will give thier hearts and minds to producing dogs that are better than the last generation, and whenever possible, will mentor others to grow. Come hell or high water, I will do what it takes to make the Olde English Bulldogge reach its full potential. I'll accept the responsibility of doing whatever I can, whenever I can. I will health test every breeding dog, and be honest about the results.
I want prosperity in my line. Any good breeder does. Prosperity is done with quality not quantity. the only way a bloodline can be prosperous is if it makes the breed better. Its not about personal gain. Its about the breed as a whole. Ask not what the Olde English Bulldogge can do for you, ask what you can do for the Olde English Bulldogge.

Friday, January 20, 2012

PRIORITIES OF A BREEDER

PRIORITIES OF A BREEDER

(1) To learn a standard and breed structure
(2) To understand the breeds original purpose, & how important it is
(3) To only allow personal preference to come into play when it will not affect the breed in any negative way
(4)To have a basic understanding of genetics & in what way they apply to each breeding we do.
(5) To learn the importance of culling & how the opposite of this practice affects the breed
(6) To know the common ailments of the breed & how to identify them
(7) To test for every common disease and defect within the breed
(8) To breed for purpose not popularity
(9) To learn how to identify people and place the right pup in the right home
(10) To learn to say "No". (dont be swayed by money or peer pressure)
(11) To attempt to make the breed and the bloodline better in every breeding

Thursday, January 19, 2012

A BLOODLINE SHOULD BE...

A BLOODLINE SHOULD BE...

(1) COPYABLE
Your ideas, philosophies, & the basic outline of your program should be for the betterment of the breed.If a breeder is all about the betterment of the breed, he should make certain things available to other breeders who also want to make the breed better.

(2)TRANSPARENT
If you plan on selling dogs, your pedigrees should be real and honest.Transparency is a rarity these days. However, it is a tool that has been used to engineer some of the top kennels in the world.

(3)MYSTERIOUS
A bloodline should have some mystique to it. People should say " I know how the breeder does it, I know why the breeder does it, but I can't always get the same results". I am not telling you to be dishonest in any way. I am telling you that the whole world doesn't need to know everything you do and think.

(4)QUALITY
A quality bloodline is a service to the breed.In the long run, working harder for better quality will be of service to the breeder as well. A bloodline should permeate the breed with health and quality.It should challenge other breeders to raise the bar in thier own program.

(5)IDENTIFYABLE
A bloodline should have its own distinct traits. A bloodline should identify with an ideal standard. A bloodline should create dogs that look like the breed. A bloodline should create dogs that signify the breed so much, when people think of the breed, dogs from that bloodline come to mind.

Monday, January 16, 2012

I just finished a pretty good book, and as I read,I take notes and write my own thoughts from it. Here are my notes from one of the chapters.

I believe that breeders who are capable of breeding good dogs who are quality representatives of the breed can operate a successful kennel.IMO, the best breeders have integrity, knowledge, and plainly put: The best dogs. These breeders must also be able to apply this knowledge. Brian Miller said to me the other day " Intellectualism is worthless". Its true. I know many who are smarter than I, but they cannot relate to people and transfer thier knowledge. Ethical breeders are the ones who last. Those who only have ethics when it's convenient will never make a positive impact on the breed.
To me, quality is a by-product of ethics. Your kennel, your website, your paperwork, your language, and your dogs should all mirror quality. You must behave ethically with other breeders, clients, and the dogs themselves. An ethical breeder has zero tolerance for money motivated breeders, animal cruelty, and breeders who do not have enough sense to blow the fuzz off a peanut.
In the Olde game, its like a free for all. Whoever has an Olde, breeds an Olde. Especially if its a desirable color. I have seen more dogs that should be spayed or neutered used in breeding programs this year than ever before. Breeders go along with whatever and pat people on the back because they dont want to "rock the boat". I dont just want to rock the boat, I want to capsize it.
BEING ETHICAL MEANS YOU DO THE RIGHT THING WHEN NO ONE ELSE CAN SEE YOU. Only YOU can protect your good name and kennel reputation. These are not flexible lines we're talking about, they are straight drawn guidelines desgined to make the Olde better, not worse. As breeders, we will face issues we have never thought about before. So if we decide now how to handle these situations, and decide that ethics will be our guide, we will not fail in future issues.
If your stock is not of REAL, LEGITIMATE quality, scrap it and start fresh. There are breeders who will help you. lets raise the bar this year! Lets regain our honor and respect in the dog world by fixing this breed that so many have screwed up!